Much of the fertile land was buried in the eruptions of Mt Matavanu between 1905 and 1911, transforming the northern side of the island and causing the people to move to Upolu. However, the beautiful tropical rainforests are still home to many exotic birds.

Traditional Samoan villages line the coast of the island, but there is no main town like Apia and public transport is scarce. There are very few taxis and rental cars need to be arranged in advance.

On the east coast, north of Saleologa wharf is the Rev. John Williams Memorial, a tribute to the first Christian Missionary who arrived in 1830. The beautiful lagoon at Lano village is well worth a visit and there is great surfing on Lano's beach and snorkelling at nearby Faga. Eight kilometres away in Letolo Plantation is the Pulemelei stone pyramid, the largest remaining monument in Polynesia, as well as an idyllic waterfall and pool.

Along the southwest coast are a series of spectacular blowholes just a short walk from Taga village. Not just another set of blowholes, there's little to equal them anywhere else in the world. Deserted Fagatele Beach lies in the vicinity of Faleaupo-tai where the villagers can be seen wood-carving adjacent to the Catholic church. Olemoe Falls, also in the south, is a lovely jungle waterfall that plunges into the crystalline waters of a deep blue pool, which is marvellous for swimming and diving.

On the north coast is lovely Papa village and further east one should stop for a swim at Matavai's fresh water spring or at Safotu's freshwater pools. Inland from Paia village is the 'short people's cave' where midgets are said to live. A two to three hour walk will bring you to Mt Matavanu, the source of the 1905-11 volcanic outbreak, which is well worth a visit, as are the massive barren lava fields at Saleuala and Aopo. The Matavanu lava fields, formed when the volcano spewed and belched molten lava for nearly six years back in the early 1900s, is now an impressive moonscape, and a walk around the crater of the volcano is a must for archeological buffs.

The Tafua Rainforest Preserve is one of the most beautiful and accessible stands of rainforest with rugged stretches of lava coast studded with caves and lava blowholes. The other rainforest on Savai'i is the Falealupo Preserve, which has a walkway canopy at the top of a stately banyan tree. For a few extra tala you can eat and sleep up there too.

You can get to Savai'i either by air, with flights from Fagali'i Airport in Apia, landing at Ma'ota airport on the south-east of the island, or by boat which runs between Mulifanua Wharf on Upolu and Salelologa on Savai'i. Be aware that the ferry service between Upolu and Savai'i is erratic, depending on the weather and number of passengers, so although the trip is only one and a half hours, don't plan to make it back for an international flight.